Fuji X100S; Long Exposure

For lots more Fuji content, visit Fuji vs. Fuji, a site run by Yours truly.

56 seconds @ ƒ/16 — Click to view larger on Flickr

Long exposure photography is my favourite. I love the effect it creates with water and clouds, and it might be the last kind of photography that can’t natively be done with your smartphone, yet. I recently (finally) had a chance to put the X100S through its paces for long exposure photography and I came away very impressed.

Here’s why: 

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My X100S with a B+W 10-stop MRC ND filter. 

1. Built-in Neutral Density filter. This is the big one. David Hobby over at Strobist gushed about the ND filter, and for good reason, but being able to cut out 3 stops of light from an exposure for free is just as gush-worthy for long exposure photography. Add a 10-stop neutral density filter (I picked up a B+W 3.0 ND MRC 110) and you’ve cut 13 stops of light with just one additional piece of glass in front of the lens. This combination lets me do 90+ second exposures on overcast days at ƒ/11. And at 49 mm, even a B+W filter isn’t crazy expensive.
2. No second noise-reduction exposure under 60 seconds. One thing that frustrated me about doing long exposure photography with my D700 was having to wait for the second noise-reduction exposure to finish. The D700 takes this second exposure at anything past 1 second if I remember correctly. At anything up to 4 seconds, it isn’t so bad, but even at 8 seconds, waiting for the shutter to close a second time gets old fast.
3. Intelligent use of the LCD. Past 30 seconds, the X100S switches to Bulb mode. When you press the shutter, the rear LCD displays a handy timer for you. No more timing shots with your iPhone.
4. Framing your shot. Using the LCD or EVF, you can happily frame your shot with that 10-stop ND filter attached. Autofocus works just fine, as does focus peaking and focus check. This is one occasion when manual focus is right up my alley. It’s fantastic. Note that the ND filter will confuse the optical viewfinder. The X100S will think it’s extremely dark and dim the OVF accordingly. If you’ve ever brought the camera to your eye with the lens cap still on and thought the OVF was busted, you’ll know what I’m talking about.
5. Size & weight. Yeah, this doesn’t have anything to do with long exposure photography, but I can’t explain how much I appreciate the size and weight of this camera. Especially over the D700 + 24-70 combo I used before. And to think, I was actually considering a filter attachment for my 14-24. *shudder*  Sure, I’m missing the flexibility of a zoom, but I’ve found sticking with a single focal length for a while helps me preemptively “see” my shots before I set up my camera. 

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Handy and intelligent use of the LCD while in Bulb mode.
No more iPhone timers for me.

Conclusion

If you really like the
35 mm focal length, the X100S might be the best camera on the market for long exposure photography. 

85 seconds @ ƒ/11 — Click to view larger on Flickr

90 seconds @ƒ/11 — Click to view larger on Flickr

Fuji X100S; Review

For lots more Fuji content, visit Fuji vs. Fuji, a site run by Yours truly.

In my previous post, I mostly reviewed the Fuji X100S as a street photography camera at which it excels. I still need some time to properly review it for landscape and long exposure work (teaser, you can capture the milky way and what appear to be shooting stars), so this post will be my general impressions. Nothing crazy technical, just my user experience. I’ll also make comparisons to the X-E1 and—more ridiculously—the D700 I used before this camera.

Here goes.

Autofocus

“Blazing Fast!” You can’t click past search results without reading those words about the X100S. It’s true that the phase detection autofocus of the X100S is very fast, but it comes with a huge caveat. In the Fuji Guys’ “Top Features” video, Billy says:

“once you move it (the AF point) past from the centre of the focus points … you kinda lose the phase detection side of the focusing.”

By “sort of” I’m pretty sure he means “entirely”. Commenters had Billy confirm that it’s the centre 3 x 3 grid of AF points that use phase detection AF. Outside of the grid, the camera moves to contrast detection which is noticeably slower. Maybe it’s fast compared to a point & shoot, but for me, coming from a D700 with pro lenses, it ain’t fast. Is comparing a compact camera made in 2013 to a pro body and lens combo from 2007/2008 fair? Maybe not, but it’s the camera I came from. If memory serves, I can also say that the D300 and 17-55 ƒ/2.8 combo handily bests the X100S in AF performance. Given what I’ve heard about where AF speeds were with the X100 (non S) when it came out, Fuji is definitely on the right track as far as AF performance is concerned.

Close Focus: Browsing around on either Fuji X Forums or Fuji X Series lead me to a post about AF errors and the close-focus capabilities. It was suggested that after you get within 3-5 feet of your subject, it’s a good idea to switch Macro mode on, particularly in low light. I haven’t tested this enough to know for sure if Macro mode solves the problem consistently, but I can say that I have run into issues where the camera looks to have focused on my close subject when in fact, it’s focused on something pretty far in the background. I can also say that Macro mode is *way* slower. The camera seems to rack through the entire focus range every time I focus and it feels interminable. For inanimate objects it’s no problem, but using this as a solution when you’re taking close up candids at dinner with a group of friends or something, forget it.

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A photo of my 24 ƒ/1.4 shows the dreamy effect of shooting in Macro mode wide open. For the right subject, it could actually be quite pleasing. Click to embiggen.

Another thing of note when in Macro mode is hazing. You’ll need stop down to ƒ/4 if you want to avoid the dreamy effect, but stopping down does the trick.

Manual Focus

I’m not much of an MF shooter, but I can echo all the folks creaming themselves over how nice focus peaking is. If manual focus is your thing, you’ll like the X100S. Yes, there could be options for the peak colour, but otherwise it’s fantastic. There’s also “focus check” where the camera shows you a highly zoomed view of the area you’re trying to focus on. It works, but usability-wise, it’s not for me. I prefer to leave it off and check manually on occasion using the middle button in toggle switch (above the main D-pad).

Picture Quality

I won’t be pixel-peeping, shooting brick walls, or doing any head to head comparisons here. A lot has already been written about the X-Trans sensor, how great the pictures it produces are, the sharpness, the colour, etc. It’s all true. This camera produces very sharp images with pleasing bokeh at large enough apertures and fantastic colour rendition. The high ISO performance is superb, but I’ve lowered my auto ISO max down to 3200 as the noise reduction at 6400 is too aggressive for me. Plus I’ve managed to get sharp photos at 1/4 of a second. Handheld. Seriously.

There’s something about the way the internals of cameras, and Fuji cameras in particular render colour. It’s extremely difficult to replicate via Lightroom.

Speaking of auto, I decided pretty early on that I would be letting this camera do as much work for me as possible. This includes shooting *gasp* JPEG. I know, I know, I can get more out of RAW, but it also means I have to process the RAW files and that takes time which is something I value. Sometimes I really enjoy spending hours tinkering with RAW files, but sometimes—and especially with casual shooting—I don’t want to have to process my photos. It’s been nice to shoot JPEG again and just shoot.

Fuji also give you the option of rendering each exposure in 3 different “Film Simulations” almost instantaneously. I love the functionality, but it could be extended even further to allow only 2 simulations or more than 3. Maybe banks of film simulations sets.

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The big RAW converters were a little slow to support the X-Trans sensor and even now, conversions aren’t quite up to the level they are with Bayer sensors. At the time of writing, my understanding is that CaptureOne is currently best at converting RAFs. I’m a Lightroom user and I own Aperture. Both support Fuji’s latest cameras and are improving. To date, DxO has said they aren’t going to bother with support for the X-Trans. This is surprising and disappointing, but there you have it. As mentioned, I went JPEG with this camera, but plan to do some RAW shooting and tinkering. In the small amount I’ve done so far, I found converting RAF’s in Lightroom 5 to be perfectly acceptable.

Hardware

The styling and the feel of Fuji’s recent cameras is outstanding. People actually do ask if it’s a film camera. The buttons, knobs, dials, and switches are all satisfying to use, but might be problematic if you have sausage-fingers. The shutter release button seems a little loose and this is emphasized if you add a soft shutter release like I did. Otherwise the camera oozes quality, however, Fuji cameras are built much more for style than they are durability. During the first week of our recent honeymoon/vacation, I had the misfortune of setting my tripod down, camera attached and one leg not fully kicked out, on uneven ground. The tripod tipped and the camera fell about 2 feet and landed almost squarely on the shutter release/power switch. Both popped right out of the camera, rendering it inoperable for the rest of the trip. That was a bad day. $480 is what Fuji Canada charged me to fix the camera and, disappointingly, I’ve lost about 8 months of warranty as any previous warranty is void and a new repair warranty takes its place when a repair is done. This would work out better if my warranty was about to expire. Not so great if you’ve just bought the camera.

Aside from the shutter release/power switch, the camera suffered only minor scuffs so I was left thinking the finish was pretty resilient. Nope. Shortly after while walking through some loose scree I lost my balance and my wife’s X-E1 bumped some rocks. The camera didn’t hit hard at all, but it was left with a bunch of nicks and scuffs. The bottom line is these Fuji cameras aren’t built to stay looking new. Unless you really baby them, they’ll show wear and quick. This may or may not be a problem. Some people really like keep they’re gear looking perfect. I’m never happy about the first scuff or scratch, but afterwards it becomes sort of liberating to be able to just use things. That’s where I am with my Fuji. In both of my unfortunate mishaps though, had I been using my Nikon gear, I’d still have been shooting with my camera and my wife’s wouldn’t have shown as much wear.

Comparisons & Conclusion

I bought my Fuji intending to supplement my Nikon system which included a D700, 24-70 ƒ/2.8, and 14-24 ƒ/2.8. I loved my D700. I suppose the fact that I sold it (the lenses are also listed for sale) is the second biggest compliment I can pay the Fuji. The difference in size and weight can’t be overstated and the Fuji sensor keeps pace with the D700 overall.

The biggest compliment is that I’m shooting again and enjoying photography. For the last couple of years, photography became a vacation activity along with a few events I’d shoot and some portraiture. It almost wasn’t a hobby anymore. It felt like work. Having to lug a camera that size around (yes, even with a prime on it) wasn’t appealing to me. I left it at home. And while everyone goes on about the iPhone replacing dedicated cameras, it hasn’t even come close for me. The iPhone is still a “last resort and the occasional video” sort of device for me. In my opinion, the X100S smokes my iPhone 5 for even the most casual shooting.

I used the cash from the sale to start building a Fuji system which includes the 14 mm ƒ/2.8, the 35 mm ƒ/1.4 and the 18-55 mm kit lens along with my wife’s X-E1 so far. My thinking is that I can use those lenses on the X-E1 until an X-Pro1 successor is released. That day can’t come soon enough though ’cause while my wife absolutely loves her Fuji, and it’s certainly a capable camera, I don’t really like the UX compared to the X100S. I don’t like the AF button on the left, that a minimum shutter speed can’t be set for auto ISO and the X100S feels faster. 

Now I’m hoping the X-Pro2 or whatever it’s called leapfrogs the X100S in performance and usability while adopting its button layout. I’ll then add the 56 mm ƒ/1.2 and the 10-24 mm ƒ/4 to the lineup for a very complete and capable mirrorless system.

So long, Nikon. It’s been a great 6 years.

Fuji X100S; The Street Edition

For lots more Fuji content, visit Fuji vs. Fuji, a site run by Yours truly.

I never liked “Street Photography.” I mean, I always enjoyed looking at others’ street photography and often wondered how they were able to capture what they had, but I’ve never really enjoyed doing it much myself. I think I’m starting to get it now and that’s down to me getting a Fuji X100S.

I bought my first Fuji largely because I wanted to get something smaller in a 35 mm focal length, but if you do more than 18 seconds of research on it, it’s impossible not to read time and again (and again) how great a camera the X100(S) is for street photography. So I was cautiously eager to try my hand at street shooting again.

I didn’t fully appreciate how much easier shooting strangers with pretty much anything aside from a DSLR really is. I figured being quick and covert ought to be enough, and yet I never felt comfortable with it. But people are really wary of random dudes with DSLRs—especially when they’ve got something like a 24-70 hanging off the front of it. In reality, shooting with something like a rangefinder truly does put people at ease much more than a paparazzi-looking DSLR does.

In addition to that, it’s also much easier to take photos without anybody knowing a thing. I’ve been sitting beside my wife and taken photos that she has no idea I’ve taken until she sees them on my Mac days later.

I do have a few gripes though:

1. I wouldn’t mind another Fn button. Maybe near the lens where the fingers on my right hand rest similar to my D700.
2. I’d love to be able to set the D-pad to change the focus points by default instead of having to hit the AF button first. I haven’t spent any time thinking through how you’d get to the other functions.
3. To that end, I also wish I could reduce the number of focus points to choose from for faster selection. 
4. I kind of feel like I need a half case with a grip or maybe a Thumbs Up from Match Technical. I’ve avoided it so far ’cause I’m trying to stay stock if possible. Adding the Thumbs up will make it ever-so-slightly less easy to slide into my bag. The X100S just barely slides in a pocket along with my iPad currently. But I think the thumb support would make a huge difference with quick one-handed operation.
5. $100 for a hood and filter attachment is a bit much. Fuji are clearly trying to make their money back on accessories. I’ve come close to ordering a JJC hood and filter attachment, but there are stories of the fit being not quite right. That would drive me nuts. 
6. I wish it was available in black. I actually preferred the look of the silver at first, but the black is definitely less conspicuous and the longer I have it, the more I wish it was black.

Gripes aside, they’re all outweighed by the positives—quick to focus once you learn it, easy one-handed operation as compared to the X-E1 and X-Pro1, outstanding picture quality, etc.—and I’ve taken way more photos since I bought the X100S than I had in the last year. That’s gotta be what matters most.

I hope to have a Landscape Edition posted in less time than it took me to get this online, but sadly, I actually broke my precious Fuji, rendering it unusable just a week into our vacation/honeymoon when I really hoped to put it through its paces. More on that in the next post.